Wednesday, June 11, 2008

As Tom Colicchio's Celebrity Rises, His Restaurants Suffer

Chef Tom Colicchio has become a television and foodie icon thanks to the hit Bravo series, "Top Chef." However, his focus on other ventures seems to have hurt his restaurants. In the past year, Colicchio's New York mainstay Craft lost its prestigious Michelin star rating because the reviewers felt it lacked consistency.

Trying to expand his culinary empire, Colicchio opened a West Coast version of the restaurant in Los Angeles. Word is that it's not nearly close to the former quality of its East Coast sister.

As a fan of Craftbar (the more casual take on Craft), a recent visit only provided for a mediocre dining experience that left a bad after taste. The short rib was texturally nice but bland on seasoning and, following a brief debate about it, the orecchiette was indeed too salty. On the other hand, the appetizers were fine -- despite a slight overkill of honey on top of the pecorino fondue.

The waitress also mentioned that Colicchio and guests (including fellow "Top Chef" judge, Padma Lakshmi) dined at Craftbar only a few hours earlier. Knowing that made the meal a further travesty since the chefs in the kitchen should've been more on their game. Or maybe Colicchio's palatte needs a refresher. There's also something to be said about losing some of your elite staff.

Either way, it's interesting to hear a celebrity chef dishout criticisms regarding the same mistakes his own restaurants make. Consistency should be important not only to the Michelin reviewers, but to everyone dining at a restaurant.

No wonder tables are often available for last-minute reservations at Craftbar.

0 comments: